Me speaking to a group of students at the U of M last year

Today, my hometown newspaper published a column I wrote about being home. You can find it here. A big thanks to Joe Spear, the editor at The Free Press, for agreeing to publish it — I’d love to hear your comments on the piece on this blog post (since The Free Press doesn’t have a commenting function).

And on Friday, Janaury 13, I’ve got a speaking engagement — my first since I spoke to a U of M class on blogging last spring. This one will be less academic. I’ll be sharing my experiences of living abroad with Mankato’s Summit Center. It’s open to the public, and if you’re from the area, feel free to come along. It’s part of their series called “Lunch and Learn,” and if you’d like to have lunch, it starts at 11:30. You can skip the lunch if you’d like and just show up at noon, that’s when I speak. Either way, call VINE Faith-in-Action to reserve your spot at (507) 387-1666. I’d love to see you there — I know I’ve already gotten a couple of emails from folks who read the VINE newsletter. Hello out there!

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Me with a literal boat-load of Australians.

“You haven’t been to Australia?! You have to go!”

That was the chorus line of my summer. If you work in the young persons’ travel industry, there’s just no avoiding the Ozzies (Aussies?). Of the 28 people I trained with for my tour guide job, 21 were Australian. Of the 51 seats on my bus on any given day throughout the season, around 40 would be occupied by Aussies (Ozzies?).

Why?

Because they’re the only ones willing to spend money and time on travel. To most Americans, taking two weeks off work and spending a couple thousand bucks on a trip with a jam-packed itinerary to multiple European countries would be a major trip. We’d travel those two weeks with ruthless efficiency then get back to our jobs back home. But those from ‘stralia will quit their day jobs in order to travel for four, six, even ten-month vacations. They’ll save for a year or so — an easier feat considering their wages. A normal bartending gig can pay $20/hour in Australia. (The same gig pays $8/hour in The States.) Ten month trips aren’t enough though. This whole Two Passports adventure I’ve been up to isn’t so crazy to them. It’s nearly a right of passage to spend two years abroad for Australians. They can easily get two-year working visas for anywhere in the EU. Some estimates put 1% of Australia’s population in London at any given time due to this work visa situation.

All this is a way to say: I have met a LOT of Australians in the past eight months. These guys can’t stop talking about how great life is in their country. Beach culture, the great weather, the barbie, the laid-back atmosphere — I’ve heard it all. Of course, after convincing you of their country’s awesomeness, Aussies will spend a half hour telling about about the five most poisonous snakes in the world (all of which live in Oz), the deadly shark attacks and the ever-present threat of Drop Bears. (Gotta watch out, those Drop Bears will getchya.)

So why am I telling you so much about Australia? Because after months and months of hearing the familiar chorus of “I can’t believe you haven’t been to Australia!” I’ve decided to finally see for myself.

On January 25, I leave Minneapolis/St. Paul International Airport for a flight so long that I’ll never get to experience January 26, 2012 — we cross the international date line at around midnight so i literally will never get that day back.

I never would have thought Australia was in the cards when I started traveling, but before long I’ll be in a country where a Devo song is revered when played at bars, where “Oi!” immediately gets everyone’s attention and where the toilets flush in the opposite direction. Australia, here I come.

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The first picture of me after arriving in Ireland two years ago. Does my expression reaveal my true feelings of "Ohshitohshitohshit what have a I done?"

Two years ago today, I first set my foot on Irish soil with the intention of living there. That dream was nearly hampered by a grouchy customs agent and myself, a naiive and underprepared world traveler.

Wait, scratch that. I was never supposed to be a world traveler. Two years ago my future-self was supposed to be back in the U.S. by November 15, 2010. I was supposed to be making an honest living. I could never have imagined that I’d end up here: Working as a tour guide, getting paid to travel and feeling more comfortable abroad than I do at home.

Wait, scratch that too. I have no idea how it will feel to live at home. This is the first time since I moved abroad that I am returning to The States with no return ticket to Europe.

I guess that’s the problem with anniversaries. It’s as if it’s trying to get me to assign meaning and a bookend to something that might not be ready to end. I feel far from finished with adventuring. Yet, with my most recent gig, I do feel something. A culmination.

Unless they suffer a dramatic injury, most professional athletes need to make a determination of when to retire. As countless examples show us, professional athletes’ best season is seldom their last one, and why would it be? Why would you want to quit something at the moment you’re the best you’ve ever been on it? The problem is, life doesn’t follow a traditional Greek dramatic structure. Major League Baseball players don’t finally win the Pennant only to retire. Only years later do they realize that their culminating moment is in the past.

And that’s how I feel at my two-year anniversary. I’ve culminated. I’ve taken all the skills I’ve learned from living in Europe and applied them to my last job. Two years ago my lack of self-confidence nearly defeated me before I even began in Galway. The John of 2009 spent a week building up the courage just to drop off a CV at a coffee shop in Ireland. I actually remember standing outside a cafe window, CV in hand and walking away because I was too scared to ask for a job. That person seems like a stranger to me now.

I now have the ability to find the cheapest plane ticket to any destination in the world, but also the knowledge that saving that much money probably won’t be worth it.

I’ve gained the courage to fly to a city without the faintest idea of what I want to do there — as I type this I’m on a train to London Heathrow Airport for a four-day trip to New York City with no plan other then where I’ll sleep. If this doesn’t sound like a big deal to you, you have to understand that when I was 13, my mother once typed up a FIVE PAGE ITINERARY with a schedule down to the minute of which place we should be going to — in Disneyworld.

I’m not at the terminus point of my globe-trotting adventure, but I do see my current situation as a direct result of the previous two years, and I’m proud of that. Every time I feel I’ve culminated — whether it be working in retail in Galway or at a hostel in Cardiff — I move to another adventure. Denouement is not for me. That’s why after the holidays I’m planning a new experience altogether different from anything I’ve done so far. I dare not say it here for fear of jinxing it, but with a little (more) luck, I’ll be able to build on the experiences and lessons I’ve learned so far.

It’s been a good two years.

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Oct
13

Safety first

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Guiding tours and driving a bus can be serious business.

I never jay-walk anymore. Well, sometimes, I do, but not without a serious pang of tour-guide guilt. If I have a group of forty people behind me, I wait for the red man to change to green, even if all of my passengers have already crossed and are waiting for me. I shutter to think what would happen a passenger were struck by a vehicle.

This ethic was drilled into my brain in a Mid-April meeting. Twenty-six of us trainees are sitting in a cold coach parked outside a Berlin hostel. What me and the other two dozen training tour guides thought was going to be another dry talk on legal EU driving hours or hostel check-in procedures has quickly spiraled into something unexpected. We’re undergoing a Scared Straight-style lecture on the importance of safety on the coach.

“Picture it guys,” our trainer says. “A tyre pops, causing the coach to sway. The coach needs to avoid another car, so it overcorrects. The coach begins barrel-rolling down the freeway. Glass is shattering, flying through the air. Bodies are flying out of the coach onto the pavement. Sparks everywhere. You’ve broken your foot and the coach is on fire. Do you really want to be unsure of if you’ve instructed your passengers on where the fire extinguisher is that day?”

Jesus.

Our trainer goes on to tell us, in vivid detail, a few of the incidents that have happened in the past few years to the company. Luckily, none of them are so extreme, but various injuries and near-death experiences are described with such detail that they jar us into realizing the responsibility we have as tour guides as we lead tourists through Europe. There are constant reminders: Just this month another tour company faced a lot of questions following the death of one of their clients on tour.

This summer I’ve learned that being a tour guide is different than being a person. Decisions made, even when off-duty, need to be made considering the effect they’ll have on my tour. When I told one of my bosses the other day that I was planning on going to an indoor skiing facility in Spain, his only response was “For the love of god, don’t break your leg.”

All these thoughts were far from my mind one hot afternoon in Tuscany last August.

———

The sun is high in the Tuscan sky as we make our way toward the Florence exit. Traffic is surprisingly light for an August afternoon in the midst of the peak season. Our coach is a few hundred meters behind a pack of cars. The heat reflected off the pavement gives the cars an out-of-focus appearance. Suddenly, one of the cars starts wobbling. The heat blur makes it hard to tell what’s happened, he’s either fishtailing or second-guessing himself (I’m aware of his gender for reasons that will become clear in a moment). After five seconds of wobbling between lanes, the car, traveling at 100kms/hour (60mph) swerves at a forty-five degree angle. Its tires dig into the pavement as the car goes airborne, flipping on its roof. Quickly approaching from behind are me, my driver and 51 passengers. We simultaneously gasp in horror as we watch the car rotate on its roof as it crosses all three lanes of traffic, debris flying left and right.

“Slow down, slow down, slow down,” I quietly instruct my driver, trying impossibly to make myself useful. Now we’re 50 meters from the wreck, quickly decelerating as another driver has pulled his car to the shoulder and runs out of his car, frantically throwing his arm in the air to oncoming cars in a gesture that communicates across all languages. “Stop! Stop!”

But we can’t stop. My driver and I never discussed it, but I’m sure we were both thinking of that same safety talk at the beginning of the season. Fifty-three people at the scene of an automobile accident on a busy motorway? Not going to happen. Instead of stopping, we drive slowly past the car just after it’s stopped. A very panicked-looking man emerges, pulling himself by his hands and knees from the upside-down car’s passenger window and immediately standing up. I can’t imagine he stayed standing for too long, but I’ll never know, since we kept driving by. John, the individual, absolutely would have stopped to help. John, the tour guide could not.

Categories : Tour guide diaries
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Yes I went to Oktoberfest in Munich, and yes I could have taken a video of everyone singing “Ein Prosit” and clinking glasses together, but I went for the more juvenile route: I got drunk on five maßes and I went on a carnival ride, where I was granted a beautiful view of the massive Oktoberfest grounds.


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Various group photos with clients in Grünau, Austria; Männlichen, Switzerland and Sorrento, Italy.

For six months now, I’ve had to learn never to be truly “off-the-clock.” Everywhere I go, in over thirty cities throughout Europe, dozens of clients, former and present, are traveling around. For six months now, I’ve learned to dread the phrase, “I know it’s your day off, but…” Yet for six months I’ve felt a bit like a celebrity just walking around in everyday life, at least in the dictionary sense of the word (“celebrity: the state of being well known,” according to New Oxford American Dictionary).

Ordering a take-away pizza in Madrid a few weeks ago, a beautiful woman walks by the window. She sees me and her eyes light up. She changes direction to come chat with me. But of course, it wasn’t to talk to me. She recognized me from taking her from Rome to Florence weeks earlier. She wanted to ask if I could change a booking of hers. Damn.

In Paris I actually had a man run half a block down the street to catch up with me after he saw me walk by the laundromat where he was washing his clothes. “What do I do if I lose my travel pass?” he asked breathlessly.

In Munich a client knocked on my bedroom door at 10pm to ask me when the bus departure time was the next day. She was taken aback when I answered in my underwear. That’s what you get when you disturb me after hours.

There is no being anonymous anymore. Yet, that’s and awfully nice way to travel. People ask me what city I’m based in. “Nowhere and everywhere,” is the best answer I can give. Of the dozens of cities I travel to though, I never feel alone. I always run into a familiar face somewhere. It’s as if I’m simultaneously living in thirty-three cities.

When I need a break from it all, there are methods I’ve discovered to becoming anonymous. I’ll hop on a metro line to the other side of the city and find a bar that’s not listed in any travel book. I’ll go to the beach by myself — no one’s really looking around at other people at the beach. I’ll go to the cinema.

Last week, in an attempt to regain that anonymity, I took a group bike tour of the Palace of Versailles. No one will know who I am, I thought. I can say my name is Bob and I’m candlestick-maker, and then maybe people will ask me about the best wax to use in candles instead of the cheapest bar in Alexanderplatz.

Then a funny thing happened. To get to the bike tour I needed to navigate Paris’ complicated metro during rush hour. Jammed into the back of the train car filled with hundreds of Parisian commuters, no one needed my help. No one needed to know the best way to get to Beauvais Airport. No one needed the name of an English speaking doctor. I was nobody.

“So what do you do?” a girl asks on my bike tour asks me an hour later as I start my bike tour.

“Me? I’m a professional tour guide,” I say proudly.

“Wow!” she says, obviously interested in my answer. Then: “Can you tell me the best way to get to the Louvre?”

Ahhh, that’s better.

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Far beneath the triple peaks of Jungfrau, Monch and Eigar lies the small Swiss village of Lauterbrunnen. A popular tourist sight year-round, but in the summer it’s completely devoid of cows. Where are all the cow bells I’ve been reading about so much? It turns out they’re grazing at 2000+ metres, completely out in the open and unafriad of humans — they watch as you pass by with a mixture of indifference and watchfullness. These two were particularly curious though, approaching me as I passed. I think they just wanted to be on camera.

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The Swiss Alps, in addition to their natural beauty have become a sort of tourist haven for extreme sports over the last decade or so. While I didn’t have it in me to try skydiving, canyoning or rafting this time around, a leisurely parachute ride with Lucas seemed like a great way to experience a bit of extreme sport. Little did I know that paragliding wasn’t all slow-paced — Lucas threw in a few tricks in the middle to get my heart racing.

(Special thanks to Outdoor Interlaken for giving me a great deal on paragliding.)

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Jul
16

Suicide by train

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Bf Hackescher Markt

Hackescher Markt, where one anonymous man's final moments played out.

In my job, arriving to our destination is always stressful. We provide transport but not accommodation to our passengers, and even though we drop off at a hostel, only about half of my passengers end up staying there. They all need help finding to their hostel/the nearest cashpoint/the toilet, so it ends up a busy few minutes that I’m happy to reach the end of.

That’s why is was such a shock to the system the other day in Berlin when one of my passengers approached me twenty minutes after I’d clocked out for the day. She was older, around sixty years old. Although I’d spent the day on the bus chatting with her and finding her to be quite cheerful, now tears were streamed down her face as she sat next to me. She tried but couldn’t get the words out. Something terrible had happened.

Only twenty minutes before I had sent her to the Berlin’s Hackeshermarkt S-bahn station, and now she had returned. Between sobs she explained to me what had happened in Morse-code-style strings of phrases as she tried to contain her emotions. “I bought my ticket…and he just…jumped in front of…” she interrupted herself with more sobs.

After some coaxing I discovered the horrible truth: After purchasing her train ticket, this woman had the misfortune of witnessing a man right beside her fling himself in front of a passing train. In shock and unsure of what to do, she returned to the only person she knew in Berlin: Me. I helped her find closer accommodation and get a taxi there, but I couldn’t help but feel a certain amount of hopelessness. Nothing I could say would erase this terrible memory from her brain.

As the week has gone by, I haven’t been able to erase the memory of an event I never witnessed from my brain, either.

I can’t help but feel anything but anger toward physically healthy people who kill themselves. In one violent act they transfer their life turmoil to everyone around them — people they don’t even know. How could this (presumably) German man know that an Australian woman would see him in his final moments on earth; That she would return to her home, halfway across the world, scarred by that fleeting moment when he threw his body into oblivion? How could he know that that Australian would go tell her American tour guide, who would take this painful memory around Europe and back to North America with him?

A few hours later, I went to the Hackeshermarkt S-bahn stop where it all happened. The world had moved on, the station was open and people were jumping on, not in front of, the train, totally unaware of the traumatic event that had happened just a few hours earlier. As the train pulled away, the only sign that remained was a large patch of white powder covering the remnants of a bloodstain on the tracks below. I should feel sadness and remorse for this recently deceased person that I have never met, but instead all I can feel is anger.

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Here’s a video I captured at my home for the a month, Italy’s island of Capri. Okay, it wasn’t really my home, but twice a week I led groups on a private boat tour around the island, pointing out the exquisite rock formations and dramatic cliffs that fell right into the sea. After we arrived, I sent my group out on their own and, “for their benefit,” I told them I’d be at the beach all day if they needed anything. I then spent the rest of the day chilling out at this beautiful beach; reading, listening to my iPod and napping. After about five hours, my group would come back to join me and we’d chill out and drink beers while we waited for the ferry to take us back to the mainland.

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